Martine Rose returns to Balenciaga as creative director

Martine Rose is the new creative director of Balenciaga. Kering announced the appointment on Friday 6 November, just one day after Pierpaolo Piccioli's departure became public. With the move of Martine Rose to Balenciaga, the Paris fashion house gains a designer who has been putting her own spin on the sneaker world for years.

Rose starts on 16 November and will be based in Paris. She succeeds Piccioli, who joined in July 2025 and leaves after roughly sixteen months. A quick turnover that shows how much pressure the house is under.

"It is a true privilege to be appointed Creative Director of Balenciaga," Rose said, promising to honour the house's legacy.

The leadership is just as enthusiastic. Kering CEO Luca de Meo speaks of "a fresh, fearless and deeply contemporary vision". Balenciaga CEO Gianfranco Gianangeli looks forward to "this exciting new chapter for the House".

Back on familiar ground

For Rose, it is a homecoming. Between 2015 and 2018 she worked as a menswear consultant at Balenciaga, in the early years under Demna. That was exactly the period in which the house became a fixture in streetwear and sneakers, with models like the Triple S.

Demna left for Gucci in early 2025. With Rose, Balenciaga brings in someone who knows the formula behind that era from the inside.

From Croydon to Paris

Rose grew up in Croydon, South London, in a British-Jamaican family. In 2007 she launched her own label, mixing London club culture, reggae, football shirts and office wear.

The result feels familiar and strange at the same time: oversized suits, wide track pants and sportswear with a twist. Artists like Rihanna and Kendrick Lamar have worn her designs. In 2023 she was named British Menswear Designer of the Year.

Sneakers with an edge

Sneaker fans mostly know her through Nike. As early as 2018 she released a tracksuit and her own take on the Monarch with the Swoosh, selling it via Craigslist in London.

Her real breakthrough came in 2022 with the Martine Rose x Nike Shox MR4: a mule-like sneaker with an elongated, pointed toe and a Shox unit under the heel. After black, bright red and silver colorways, a white-and-red version followed in October 2025.

She has left her mark beyond Nike too. Clarks Originals named her its first guest creative director in 2023, resulting in the 'Coming Up Roses' collection. In 2024 she worked with Supreme on a Clarks Desert Trek.

Last month also saw the release of the Supreme x Martine Rose x Nike Dunk Low 'Mike Tyson'. A black leather Dunk with a large photo of the boxer on the heel, priced at €130.

What her appointment means

The appointment stands out for several reasons. Several outlets describe Rose as the first woman to lead the house creatively. She is also one of the few Black women at the helm of a major luxury brand.

There is a lot at stake commercially as well. Kering is in the middle of a turnaround under De Meo, who says he wants to keep Balenciaga "at the forefront of innovation, creativity, and culture". In the latest quarterly results, Balenciaga's ready-to-wear and footwear were flagged as challenging categories. Exactly the areas where Rose made her name.

For sneaker fans, that is the most interesting part of the story. Under Demna, Balenciaga set the tone for years with the Triple S, Speed Trainer and Track. Whether Martine Rose will also take on the sneaker line has not been confirmed. Her track record does make it plausible.

When her first collection for Balenciaga will be shown has not yet been announced. Kering and Balenciaga also said nothing about the future of her own label, which came under pressure this spring amid a dispute with investor Tomorrow Ltd.

Curious about the latest releases from Balenciaga and Nike? Keep an eye on the release calendar so you don't miss a thing.

Featured Image Credits: thegentlewomen UK