Released in 1991, the Nike Air Max 180 marked an important evolution in the Air Max line, debuting a 180-degree visible Air unit that extended to the outsole for the first time. Designed by Tinker Hatfield and Bruce Kilgore, the shoe was intended to showcase the Air cushioning more prominently while delivering a softer, more responsive feel underfoot.
Although it wasn't an immediate commercial hit compared to other Air Max models, the 180 eventually found renewed popularity through retro releases and high-profile collaborations.
Air 180: How it started
In 1987, Nike released the Air Max 1, designed by Tinker Hatfield. This groundbreaking model was the first Nike shoe to feature visible Air technology, revolutionizing sneaker design. It was followed by the Air Max 2, better known as the Air Max Light, and then the Air Max 90 in 1990, which introduced an even larger visible Air unit. The Air Max 4 soon followed, continuing the evolution of the line.
In 1991, the Air Max 180 made its debut, designed through the collaboration of two Nike legends: Tinker Hatfield and Bruce Kilgore, the creator of the Air Force 1. Together, they made the Air unit more prominent than ever, doubling its size and extending it 180 degrees across the sole.
The Air Max 180 was also the first sneaker to have the Air bubble directly exposed to the ground, eliminating any protective layer in between for a more responsive feel.
Unfortunately, when the Air Max 180 was released, it didn’t receive an overwhelmingly positive response. Despite the significant advancement in Air technology, the shoe struggled to gain widespread popularity. This was partly because its upper design wasn’t considered particularly innovative.
Additionally, the shoe’s advertising took a more artistic approach, which many felt was unlike typical Nike campaigns. As a result, the public didn’t respond well to the marketing, impacting the shoe’s initial success.
As a second advertising stunt, the Air 180 was promoted by Michael Jordan during the 1992 Olympics in Barcelona. MJ wore the Air 180 'Concord', a special colorway that was developed. Most notable were the gold swoosh and the purple accents on the shoe. This purple 'Concord' colour was later often put on Jordans.
Air 180: Artistic vision was seen
Despite the Air Max 180’s lukewarm reception, Nike didn’t lose faith in the shoe’s artistic vision. In 2004, Kanye West was seen wearing a unique pair specially designed for his debut album, College Dropout. A standout feature of this exclusive design is the bear mascot from the album cover, which is prominently displayed on the tongue of the Air Max 180s.
Besides Kanye West, special designs were also created with Eminem and Dizzee Rascal, among others. All these collabs were extremely exclusive and very limited.
Air 180 x CDG
The Air 180 really got a popularity boost when the creative brand Comme des Garçons had a collaboration with Nike in 2018. The collab featured no less than three different colorways that each featured a striking neon pink. The 'Laser Pink' pack was well received in the sneaker scene.
OG Colorway returned
2018 also saw the re-release of the OG pair of the 1991 Air 180. The Air 180 'Ultramarine' re-released in the original colorway, the white base made a return with the Solar Red and blue accents. This colorway perfectly captures the 90s vibes and provides a lot of nostalgia for sneakerheads.
You can think what you want about the Air 180 design, but the revolutionary visible Air has inspired many later models from Nike. Think of the Air Max 95 or 97 which came after it. Or the VaporMax where even the entire sole consists of an Air Bubble which hits the ground directly. The Nike Air 180 has created an "Air-volution" and we are happy to celebrate its 30th anniversary.
